Looking to buy a waxed jacket? This guide covers everything you need to know, from iconic brands like Barbour and Belstaff to different types of waxed canvas, fits, and how to care for your jacket.
Waxed Jackets: A Timeless Investment
In the world of menswear, few garments possess the timeless appeal, rugged durability, and quiet sophistication of the waxed jacket. Part practical outerwear, part style statement, the waxed cotton jacket is a British icon that has transcended its rural origins to become a staple in wardrobes around the globe.
It’s the kind of jacket that looks better with age. Every scuff, crease, and rewax tells a story. Itās a shield against the wind and rain, a trusted companion on a country walk, and a stylish layer for a city commute.
But choosing your first (or next) waxed jacket can be daunting. With legendary brands like Barbour and Belstaff, different weights of waxed canvas, and a variety of fits and styles, where do you start?
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This ultimate buyer’s guide will walk you through everything you need to know to invest in a jacket that will last you a lifetime. Weāll cover:
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The enduring appeal and practicality of wax jackets.
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A deep dive into the iconic brands: Barbour, Belstaff, and Private White V.C.
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A comparison of famous models, including the Barbour Bedale vs Beaufort.
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The different types of waxed cotton and what they mean for you.
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How to choose the right fit and style for your lifestyle.
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Essential tips on caring for and rewaxing your jacket.
Get ready to find the perfect waxed jacketāa true investment in style and function.
Why a Waxed Jacket? The Enduring Appeal
Before we get into the details, why should a waxed jacket be on your radar?
- Weather Resistance:Ā The primary function of a waxed jacket is to be water-resistant and windproof. The wax coating on the cotton fabric repels water, keeping you dry in a light to moderate shower. It’s the original performance fabric, long before Gore-Tex was invented.
- Incredible Durability:Ā TheĀ waxed canvas jacketĀ is built to last. The sturdy cotton canvas is tough and resistant to tears and snags. These are not delicate fashion items; they are workhorses.
- Ages Beautifully:Ā Unlike many garments, a waxed jacket improves with age. It develops a unique patina, molding to your body and activities. A well-worn waxed jacket has a character that can’t be bought off the shelf.
- Timeless Style:Ā The classic waxed jacket has remained virtually unchanged for decades. It’s a style that is immune to fleeting trends, looking just as good today as it did 50 years ago.
- Sustainable Choice:Ā In an era of fast fashion, a waxed jacket is an investment in longevity. With proper care and rewaxing, it can last for decades, reducing waste.
The Holy Trinity of Waxed Jackets: The Brands
While many companies make waxed jackets, three British brands stand at the pinnacle of quality and heritage.
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Barbour: The Royal Standard
- The Heritage:Ā Founded in 1894 in South Shields, England,Ā BarbourĀ is the undisputed king of waxed jackets. It is synonymous with the British countryside and is a favorite of the Royal Family, holding multiple Royal Warrants.
- The Style:Ā Classic, traditional, and practical. Barbour jackets are known for their relaxed fit, tartan linings, corduroy collars, and large bellows pockets. They are the epitome of understated country style.
- Iconic Models:
- Bedale:Ā Originally designed for equestrian use, the Bedale is a shorter, hip-length jacket with rear vents, making it comfortable for sitting.
- Beaufort:Ā Designed for shooting, the Beaufort is slightly longer than the Bedale, offering more coverage. Its most famous feature is the large “game pocket” at the back.
- The Vibe:Ā A walk in the woods, a weekend in the country, a loyal companion.
Belstaff: The Rebel’s Choice
- The Heritage:Ā Founded in 1924,Ā Belstaff jacketsĀ made their name in the world of motorcycling. They were worn by pioneers like Steve McQueen and Che Guevara.
- The Style:Ā More tailored, rugged, and edgier than Barbour. Belstaff jackets often feature a belted waist, multiple reinforced pockets, and a more streamlined, “moto” silhouette.
- Iconic Models:
- Trialmaster:Ā The original four-pocket belted motorcycle jacket, a true icon of adventure and rebellion.
- Roadmaster:Ā A more modern, slimmer interpretation of the Trialmaster.
- The Vibe:Ā A vintage motorcycle, an open road, a cool, rebellious spirit.
Private White V.C.: The Modern Artisan
- The Heritage:Ā A relative newcomer in terms of global fame, but with deep roots in Manchester, England.Ā Private White V.C.Ā is a luxury brand focused on exceptional craftsmanship and locally sourced materials.
- The Style:Ā A modern, luxurious take on classic British military and workwear silhouettes. Their fits are contemporary and impeccably tailored.
- Iconic Model:Ā TheĀ Private White Wax WalkerĀ is a masterpiece. It’s a modern field jacket made from British-milled waxed cotton, often lined with wool, and featuring high-end details like copper hardware from Riri of Switzerland.
- The Vibe:Ā Urban sophistication, artisanal quality, a modern heirloom.
Barbour Bedale vs Beaufort: The Classic Conundrum
This is the most common decision for a first-time Barbour buyer.
| Feature | Barbour Bedale | Barbour Beaufort |
|---|---|---|
| Length | Shorter (hip-length) | Longer (mid-thigh) |
| Original Purpose | Horse Riding | Shooting / Hunting |
| Key Feature | Rear vents that can be un-snapped for sitting on a saddle. | Large, full-width “game pocket” at the back. |
| Cuffs | Ribbed, elasticated “storm cuffs” to keep out the wind. | Velcro-adjustable cuffs. |
| Best For… | A more versatile, everyday jacket that is comfortable for driving and city wear. | Taller individuals or those who want more coverage and protection from the elements. Also great for layering over a sport coat. |
The Verdict: There’s no wrong choice. If you want a classic all-rounder, go for the Bedale. If you’re taller or want a more traditional country look with maximum coverage, choose the Beaufort.
Understanding the Fabric: Not All Waxed Canvas is Created Equal
The “hand feel” and performance of a waxed jacket depend on the weight and type of the waxed canvas.
- Traditional Wet Wax:Ā This is the classic, heavy-duty finish used on old-school Barbour and Belstaff jackets. It has a slightly oily or “wet” feel and offers excellent water resistance. It develops a rich patina over time but may require more frequent rewaxing.
- Dry Wax:Ā A more modern finish. The wax is impregnated into the fabric, so it feels dry to the touch and doesn’t have the same oily residue. It’s lighter and more comfortable for urban wear but may be slightly less water-resistant than a heavy wet wax. TheĀ Private White Wax WalkerĀ often uses this type of fabric.
- Fabric Weight:Ā Waxed canvas is measured in ounces (oz).
- 6-8 oz:Ā A standard weight, found on most classic Barbour jackets. It offers a good balance of durability and comfort.
- 4 oz:Ā A lightweight option, perfect for a spring or autumn jacket.
- 10-12 oz:Ā A heavyweight canvas, extremely durable and rugged, often found on motorcycle or workwear-inspired jackets.
How to Choose the Right Waxed Jacket for You
Follow this simple checklist.
1. Define Your Primary Use:
- Country walks and outdoor pursuits?Ā A classicĀ BarbourĀ (Beaufort for more coverage) is perfect.
- City commuting and everyday style?Ā A shorter Barbour Bedale, a modernĀ Private White V.C., or a tailoredĀ BelstaffĀ would be ideal.
- Motorcycling or a more rugged look?Ā A beltedĀ Belstaff TrialmasterĀ is the clear choice.
2. Get the Fit Right:
- Traditional Fit (Barbour):Ā Designed to be roomy to allow for layering a thick sweater or even a blazer underneath. Don’t be tempted to size down too much, or you’ll lose its practicality.
- Tailored Fit (Belstaff, Private White V.C.):Ā These jackets are designed to be worn closer to the body for a more modern silhouette. Check the shoulder and chest measurements carefully.
- Sleeve Length:Ā The sleeves should be long enough to cover your wrists when you raise your arms.
3. Consider the Details:
- Pockets:Ā Do you need large bellows pockets for carrying items, or hand-warmer pockets for cold days?
- Lining:Ā A classic tartan lining adds warmth and character. A quilted lining is even warmer. An unlined jacket is better for milder climates.
- Hood:Ā Do you need a detachable hood for rainy days?
Caring for Your Investment: Rewaxing and Cleaning
A waxed jacket is not a garment you throw in the washing machine.
- NEVER Machine Wash or Dry Clean:Ā This will strip the wax coating completely and ruin the jacket.
- Cleaning:Ā To clean your jacket, use a sponge withĀ cold water only. For stubborn spots, a soft brush can be used.
- Rewaxing:Ā Over time, the wax will wear off, especially at friction points like the elbows and shoulders. The jacket will start to look dry and will lose its water resistance. It needs to be rewaxedĀ every 1-2 years, depending on use.
- DIY:Ā You can buy a tin of wax (e.g., Barbour Thornproof Dressing) and do it yourself at home. It involves melting the wax and applying it evenly with a sponge. It’s a satisfying process.
- Professional Service:Ā Barbour and other brands offer a professional rewaxing and repair service. You can send your jacket away, and it will come back looking as good as new.
Conclusion: A Jacket for Life
A waxed jacket is more than just a piece of outerwear. It is an investment in a piece of history, craftsmanship, and enduring style. It is a garment that doesn’t fight against the elements, but rather embraces them, developing a character that is uniquely yours.
Whether you choose the royal heritage of a Barbour, the rebellious spirit of a Belstaff, or the modern luxury of a Private White V.C., you are buying a jacket for life.
Care for it, rewax it, and wear it with pride. It will protect you from the weather for decades to come, and in a world of fast fashion, there are few things more stylish than that.
